Sunday, February 27, 2011

The Science of Big Waves

1) Waves are formed by the action of the wind blowing across the ocean. They start when wind ripples and these form wavelets and finally waves when the wavelets combine together.
2) The surfers should know about the wave heights, reefs, wave length, how they break and their intensity before they attempt surfing in that 'area' as they would then know about how to surf and how dangerous or safe it is

Video Questions
1) Most waves seen in the video are Mavericks which are created by the Wave Factory pushing waves together from a WNW direction which causes the waves to have a small rise and when they get closer to the shore, the waves are refracted into converging waves which become quite large when the waves hit the launching pad which are a group of rocks that intensify wave energy. The other waves seen are the ones near the Alaska Pole which are small but are numerous and these help create larger waves like the Maverick. The waves break when they lose energy and when the wave peak travels faster than the wave base and the waves break along with the energy they contain
2) Waves are formed by wind blowing across the ocean, especially in areas closer to the Poles, such as Alaska. This helps create a large multitude of waves that sometimes when the weather climates are correct, corrects small or massive waves. The wave is created from natural wind energy where the wave's energy carries the wind energy with it all the way towards shore
3) The big wave (Maverick) is a huge 25 metre + set of wave(s) that appear and are created by the storms and winds from the Alaska Pole that is nicknamed the Wave Factory. The way they're formed is special because the wave becomes so big and lasts for about 20 seconds because the wave factory has pushed many waves together as this is the only place around the world where this happens.
4) Energy is stored when the wave grows, the energy transfers when it hits the ocean floor and bounces back up and makes the wave grow upwards that makes the waves bigger and 'spins' the particles as slowly goes down to the ocean floor and then back upwards.
5) If you go to catch a big wave, you should apparently run in and grab the wave before it crashes downwards on you and you fall

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