1) Waves are formed by the action of the wind blowing across the ocean. They start when wind ripples and these form wavelets and finally waves when the wavelets combine together.
2) The surfers should know about the wave heights, reefs, wave length, how they break and their intensity before they attempt surfing in that 'area' as they would then know about how to surf and how dangerous or safe it is
Video Questions
1) Most waves seen in the video are Mavericks which are created by the Wave Factory pushing waves together from a WNW direction which causes the waves to have a small rise and when they get closer to the shore, the waves are refracted into converging waves which become quite large when the waves hit the launching pad which are a group of rocks that intensify wave energy. The other waves seen are the ones near the Alaska Pole which are small but are numerous and these help create larger waves like the Maverick. The waves break when they lose energy and when the wave peak travels faster than the wave base and the waves break along with the energy they contain
2) Waves are formed by wind blowing across the ocean, especially in areas closer to the Poles, such as Alaska. This helps create a large multitude of waves that sometimes when the weather climates are correct, corrects small or massive waves. The wave is created from natural wind energy where the wave's energy carries the wind energy with it all the way towards shore
3) The big wave (Maverick) is a huge 25 metre + set of wave(s) that appear and are created by the storms and winds from the Alaska Pole that is nicknamed the Wave Factory. The way they're formed is special because the wave becomes so big and lasts for about 20 seconds because the wave factory has pushed many waves together as this is the only place around the world where this happens.
4) Energy is stored when the wave grows, the energy transfers when it hits the ocean floor and bounces back up and makes the wave grow upwards that makes the waves bigger and 'spins' the particles as slowly goes down to the ocean floor and then back upwards.
5) If you go to catch a big wave, you should apparently run in and grab the wave before it crashes downwards on you and you fall
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Big Wave Portfolio - Dungeons Cape Town, South Africa
Big Wave Portfolio - Dungeons Cape Town, South Africa
Dungeons is a deep reef break with three sections off the main break and also holds the Red Bull Wave Africa competition for the most fearless surfers.
The first main section is known as the slab; this is where you will most likely see people surfing when the surf isn’t too big. It has a great barrel section and a supposedly intense take-off spot. The next section to be familiar with is the two-point-five section, named after the two and a half meters of water between the surfer and what lies beneath. The last spot is known as Washburn’s Peak. This is where the bigger sets tend to roll in, but not very frequently but with waves that reach up to 20 metres and a good day and 6-15 metres on most days.
The waves are usually massive because of the pressure systems at the Antarctic Circle. South Atlantic Ocean which directs its wave energy at Dungeons. Dungeons is the first sea floor that the ocean swells encounter which causes huge breaking waves.
The waves may be huge but surfers must contend with the super cold water which results in most surfers wearing thermo pads underneath their wetsuits. As well as the water, there are a few sharks that lurk around near Dungeons.
Summarising the TRESB Project
1) The problem with the Tweed River is that sand and silt continuously built up on the southern side of the River. The buildup was caused by the four nearby outlets which under went the process of longshore drift which moved all sand to the Southern Side of the River. This caused problems for cargo ships trying to enter as it was very unsafe because of sand bars forming over the mouth of the River. The government tried to extend the breakwaters three times in 1962, 1969 and 1994 but after a short time period, this failed and a new solution had to be constructed.
2) The solution to this problem was eventually to create massive pipes that would dump the sand to four various Outlets nearby. This only happened recently after the extension of breakwaters failed and sand built up at the entrance again therefore recreating a artificial longshore drift process. Also, it replace trucks taking sand up to the Gold Coast for beach nourishment as this process was expensive and time consuming.
3) The TRESB Project was a great success as it solved the problem of sand buildup at the TRE which allowed the safe entrance for cargo ships. The areas affected were the Tweed River, the residents living close to the Tweed River, the East and West Snapper, Kirra and Duranbah Outlets and the Gold Coast as they were now undergoing a process of beach nourishment which made them better for tourists and swimmers/surfers. This is also named as a success as it is classified as one of Australia's most successful coastal management development completed.
2) The solution to this problem was eventually to create massive pipes that would dump the sand to four various Outlets nearby. This only happened recently after the extension of breakwaters failed and sand built up at the entrance again therefore recreating a artificial longshore drift process. Also, it replace trucks taking sand up to the Gold Coast for beach nourishment as this process was expensive and time consuming.3) The TRESB Project was a great success as it solved the problem of sand buildup at the TRE which allowed the safe entrance for cargo ships. The areas affected were the Tweed River, the residents living close to the Tweed River, the East and West Snapper, Kirra and Duranbah Outlets and the Gold Coast as they were now undergoing a process of beach nourishment which made them better for tourists and swimmers/surfers. This is also named as a success as it is classified as one of Australia's most successful coastal management development completed.
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
7.6 Tweed River Entrance Sand Bypassing Project
1) It became necessary to extend the Tweed River breakwaters because the continual build of sand on the southern side caused the river mouth to silt up again, which meant the entrance wasn't safe to use
2) There wouldn't be any sand to be collected for beach nourishment for the Gold Coast Beaches as there would've been before the breakwaters created as there would be less of a sand buildup. Also, after a severe storm, more sand would be built up along the Southern side of the Tweed River would be a lot more trucking of sand into the Gold Coast which would cost a lot more
3) Due to sandbars constantly forming along the entrance to the Tweed River, ships couldn't enter the River because they would run aground. The natural process is called longshore drift
4) Dredging of the Tweed River was a short term goal as it didn't last long as more and more sand continuously built up and the cost of having to dredge it all out was extremely expensive as it had to be done regularly
5) TRESBP replaced natural longshore drift by shifting the built up sand onto other beaches through pipes so that the sand would nourish other beaches and outlets inside of letting the sand and silt building up on the Tweed River
6) The TRESBP was one of the most successful coastal management schemes because it managed to remove the sand and silt build up on the Tweed River and removed it safely without causing harm to the environment, to other outlets such as West and East Snapper Rocks aswell as dredging to the Gold Coast. It also costs a lot less than constantly dredging to the Gold Coast via massive trucks.
7)
8) Since 1962, the breakwaters at the Tweed River have constantly got larger and larger to prevent the buildup of sand aswell as the money needed to extend breakwaters and maintain the River Entrance.
9) The lengths of breakwaters are roughly 250 metres on the North entrance and 25 metres on the South entrance
2) There wouldn't be any sand to be collected for beach nourishment for the Gold Coast Beaches as there would've been before the breakwaters created as there would be less of a sand buildup. Also, after a severe storm, more sand would be built up along the Southern side of the Tweed River would be a lot more trucking of sand into the Gold Coast which would cost a lot more
3) Due to sandbars constantly forming along the entrance to the Tweed River, ships couldn't enter the River because they would run aground. The natural process is called longshore drift
4) Dredging of the Tweed River was a short term goal as it didn't last long as more and more sand continuously built up and the cost of having to dredge it all out was extremely expensive as it had to be done regularly
5) TRESBP replaced natural longshore drift by shifting the built up sand onto other beaches through pipes so that the sand would nourish other beaches and outlets inside of letting the sand and silt building up on the Tweed River
6) The TRESBP was one of the most successful coastal management schemes because it managed to remove the sand and silt build up on the Tweed River and removed it safely without causing harm to the environment, to other outlets such as West and East Snapper Rocks aswell as dredging to the Gold Coast. It also costs a lot less than constantly dredging to the Gold Coast via massive trucks.
7)
8) Since 1962, the breakwaters at the Tweed River have constantly got larger and larger to prevent the buildup of sand aswell as the money needed to extend breakwaters and maintain the River Entrance.
9) The lengths of breakwaters are roughly 250 metres on the North entrance and 25 metres on the South entrance
Monday, February 21, 2011
Big Wave Portfolio - Dungeons Cape Town, South Africa
Dungeons is located in Hout Bay, South Africa near Cape Town and is not the easiest place to surf as there is either a trek across an entire mountain to get there or a direct boat ride to the break.
Dungeons is a deep reef break with three sections off the main break and also holds the Red Bull Wave Africa competition for the most fearless surfers.
The first main section is known as the slab; this is where you will most likely see people surfing when the surf isn’t too big. It has a great barrel section and a supposedly intense take-off spot. The next section to be familiar with is the two-point-five section, named after the two and a half meters of water between the surfer and what lies beneath. The last spot is known as Washburn’s Peak. This is where the bigger sets tend to roll in, but not very frequently but with waves that reach up to 20 metres and a good day and 6-15 metres on most days.
The waves are usually massive because of the pressure systems at the Antarctic Circle. South Atlantic Ocean which directs its wave energy at Dungeons. Dungeons is the first sea floor that the ocean swells encounter which causes huge breaking waves.
The waves may be huge but surfers must contend with the super cold water which results in most surfers wearing thermo pads underneath their wetsuits. As well as the water, there are a few sharks that lurk around near Dungeons.
Dungeons is a deep reef break with three sections off the main break and also holds the Red Bull Wave Africa competition for the most fearless surfers.
The first main section is known as the slab; this is where you will most likely see people surfing when the surf isn’t too big. It has a great barrel section and a supposedly intense take-off spot. The next section to be familiar with is the two-point-five section, named after the two and a half meters of water between the surfer and what lies beneath. The last spot is known as Washburn’s Peak. This is where the bigger sets tend to roll in, but not very frequently but with waves that reach up to 20 metres and a good day and 6-15 metres on most days.
The waves are usually massive because of the pressure systems at the Antarctic Circle. South Atlantic Ocean which directs its wave energy at Dungeons. Dungeons is the first sea floor that the ocean swells encounter which causes huge breaking waves.
The waves may be huge but surfers must contend with the super cold water which results in most surfers wearing thermo pads underneath their wetsuits. As well as the water, there are a few sharks that lurk around near Dungeons.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Year 10 Monday 21/2: The Science of Big Waves
1) Waves are formed by the action of the wind blowing across the ocean. They start when wind ripples and these form wavelets and finally waves when the wavelets combine together.
2) The surfers should know about the wave heights, reefs, wave length, how they break and their intensity before they attempt surfing in that 'area' as they would then know about how to surf and how dangerous or safe it is
Video Questions
1) Most waves seen in the video are Mavericks which are created by the Wave Factory pushing waves together from a WNW direction which causes the waves to have a small rise and when they get closer to the shore, the waves are refracted into converging waves which become quite large when the waves hit the launching pad which are a group of rocks that intensify wave energy. The other waves seen are the ones near the Alaska Pole which are small but are numerous and these help create larger waves like the Maverick. The waves break when they lose energy and when the wave peak travels faster than the wave base and the waves break along with the energy they contain
2) Waves are formed by wind blowing across the ocean, especially in areas closer to the Poles, such as Alaska. This helps create a large multitude of waves that sometimes when the weather climates are correct, corrects small or massive waves. The wave is created from natural wind energy where the wave's energy carries the wind energy with it all the way towards shore
3) The big wave (Maverick) is a huge 25 metre + set of wave(s) that appear and are created by the storms and winds from the Alaska Pole that is nicknamed the Wave Factory. The way they're formed is special because the wave becomes so big and lasts for about 20 seconds because the wave factory has pushed many waves together as this is the only place around the world where this happens.
4) Energy is stored when the wave grows, the energy transfers when it hits the ocean floor and bounces back up and makes the wave grow upwards that makes the waves bigger and 'spins' the particles as slowly goes down to the ocean floor and then back upwards.
5) If you go to catch a big wave, you should apparently run in and grab the wave before it crashes downwards on you and you fall
2) The surfers should know about the wave heights, reefs, wave length, how they break and their intensity before they attempt surfing in that 'area' as they would then know about how to surf and how dangerous or safe it is
Video Questions
1) Most waves seen in the video are Mavericks which are created by the Wave Factory pushing waves together from a WNW direction which causes the waves to have a small rise and when they get closer to the shore, the waves are refracted into converging waves which become quite large when the waves hit the launching pad which are a group of rocks that intensify wave energy. The other waves seen are the ones near the Alaska Pole which are small but are numerous and these help create larger waves like the Maverick. The waves break when they lose energy and when the wave peak travels faster than the wave base and the waves break along with the energy they contain
2) Waves are formed by wind blowing across the ocean, especially in areas closer to the Poles, such as Alaska. This helps create a large multitude of waves that sometimes when the weather climates are correct, corrects small or massive waves. The wave is created from natural wind energy where the wave's energy carries the wind energy with it all the way towards shore
3) The big wave (Maverick) is a huge 25 metre + set of wave(s) that appear and are created by the storms and winds from the Alaska Pole that is nicknamed the Wave Factory. The way they're formed is special because the wave becomes so big and lasts for about 20 seconds because the wave factory has pushed many waves together as this is the only place around the world where this happens.
4) Energy is stored when the wave grows, the energy transfers when it hits the ocean floor and bounces back up and makes the wave grow upwards that makes the waves bigger and 'spins' the particles as slowly goes down to the ocean floor and then back upwards.
5) If you go to catch a big wave, you should apparently run in and grab the wave before it crashes downwards on you and you fall
Sunday, February 13, 2011
7.5 Coastal Management Questions
7) 250 metres on the ground
8) 10 metres
9a) 250m
b) 2.25km
c) 50m
d) 380m
e) 15 minutes
10) The lighthouse at Danger Point
11) Westerly Aspect
12 ~ 12m
13a) Road
b) Bridge
c) Road/beach
d) Raceway/highway
e) Caravan Park
f) Roads and buildings
14a) Boyds Island
b) Terranora Inlet
c) Ocean/Beach
d) Mount Murraba
e) Sandy Island
f) South Head
15) 519843
16) The building density is minimal at AR 5483 as it is mostly just road and probably sightseeing areas
17) AR 5282 would have more buildings per square kilometre as there are more streets which would mean more houses than AR 5281 which is mostly comprised of Terranora Creek and a few islands
18a) N30W
b) S70E
c) S30E
d) N50E
9a) 250m
b) 2.25km
c) 50m
d) 380m
e) 15 minutes
10) The lighthouse at Danger Point
11) Westerly Aspect
12 ~ 12m
13a) Road
b) Bridge
c) Road/beach
d) Raceway/highway
e) Caravan Park
f) Roads and buildings
14a) Boyds Island
b) Terranora Inlet
c) Ocean/Beach
d) Mount Murraba
e) Sandy Island
f) South Head
15) 519843
16) The building density is minimal at AR 5483 as it is mostly just road and probably sightseeing areas
17) AR 5282 would have more buildings per square kilometre as there are more streets which would mean more houses than AR 5281 which is mostly comprised of Terranora Creek and a few islands
18a) N30W
b) S70E
c) S30E
d) N50E
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Monday, February 7, 2011
Sunday, February 6, 2011
Coastal Management Questions 7.1
The settlement pattern of Australia is generally related to the problems on the coast such as erosion and weather patterns. As over 80% of the population lives within 50 kilometers of the coast, the population density has increased although they are also slowly trying to fix issues on the coast
2. Most people would like to reserve the coast and its features for future generations, therefore, a sustainable development that will allow the preservation of a coastal area for awhile
3. The two trends named as sea change is unemployment due to coastal problems or global warming
4. Government attempts to limit 'sea change' is to limit future population growth, as there is not enough water to supply the population as it rises
5. Coastal Erosion, Wave Erosion, Long Shore Currents and Human Erosion are four geographical issues facing the coast. Coastal Erosion is created naturally through nature as is wave erosion and long shore currents. Human erosion is caused through the building of infrastructure in areas near or in the coast as well as the gasses/fumes humans produce which have an effect on the weather causing more natural erosion
6. Geographers set the future for the saving of coastal areas with their plans and developing coastal management ideas for coastal issues. They also are relied upon for paving the way for further research on natural and human impacts on the coast
7. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.shorebirdworld.org/fromthefield/Images/coastal%2520development.JPG&imgrefurl=http://www.angelfire.com/blues/writing/environmentupdate.html&usg=__-ytE9pUs-aktYSk_Xtyp4OPR-iM=&h=800&w=1200&sz=77&hl=en&start=0&sig2=-fCucOreG73nOh7HhMZALA&zoom=1&tbnid=cIl9ZpmjZzHyfM:&tbnh=133&tbnw=163&ei=sJdPTdWmH8eVcZO7hM4L&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dinappropriate%2Bcoastal%2Bdevelopment%26hl%3Den%26biw%3D1408%26bih%3D702%26gbv%3D2%26tbs%3Disch:1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=651&vpy=82&dur=1159&hovh=183&hovw=275&tx=134&ty=82&oei=sJdPTdWmH8eVcZO7hM4L&esq=1&page=1&ndsp=26&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:0
In this photo, development could be fixed by not letting further population increases and it would slowly devour and sink most of these 'islands' which are already mostly submerged or have disappeared because of human impacts on the coast
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